A James Beard Nominee delights patrons with exquisite five-course meals at this restaurant in Exeter, New Hampshire.

HISTORIC DOWNTOWN IS BUZZING WITH ENERGY AT OTIS, A RESTAURANT WHERE WE HAD THE PLEASURE OF SPEAKING WITH CHEF LEIGH FRANK, WHO HAS JUST BEEN NOMINATED FOR A JAMES BEARD AWARD FOR BEST CHEF IN THE NORTHEAST—AN INCREDIBLE HONOR THAT FEELS BOTH HUMBLING AND A BIT UNREAL. CHEF FRANK, A CALIFORNIA NATIVE, RECALLED HIS START IN THE CULINARY WORLD AT AGE 15, WORKING AS A CASHIER AT A BURGER PLACE. IT DIDN'T TAKE LONG FOR HIM TO REALIZE HIS PASSION LAY IN COOKING. “AFTER A MONTH, I APPROACHED THE OWNER ABOUT SWITCHING TO A COOKING ROLE, AND HE WAS SURPRISED. 'ARE YOU SURE?' HE ASKED. I SAID, 'ABSOLUTELY, THOSE COOKS ARE HAVING WAY MORE FUN!'” AFTER COMPLETING CULINARY SCHOOL AND GAINING EXPERIENCE IN VARIOUS KITCHENS, A CALL FROM A FORMER BOSS SET HIS CAREER ON A NEW PATH. “I ANSWERED THE PHONE AND HE INTRODUCED HIMSELF AS CHEF JASON, NEEDING A SOUS CHEF IN MAINE. I REMEMBER THINKING, 'WHERE IS MAINE?' HE EXPLAINED IT'S IN THE NORTHEAST, AT THE TOP OF THE COUNTRY.” HAVING PREPARED COUNTLESS DISHES, CHEF FRANK WANTED TO OPEN HIS OWN PLACE. FORTUNATELY, THE OWNERS OF IN BY THE BANDSTAND WERE LOOKING TO LAUNCH A NEW RESTAURANT. “WHEN I STEPPED INSIDE, THE VISION JUST CLICKED—THE BAR HERE, THE KITCHEN THERE.” THAT WAS BACK